- Structural strength: Tips can give temporary underlying support to each nail as it grows out.
- Stress Cracks: Tips are reinforced in the stress areas giving extra strength to the natural stress points; this can be beneficial with nail biters. Again, this is only temporary as the tip grows out and off the nail. A set of gels or acrylics over tips are only as good as the tip application. Faulty tip application will undermine product performance.
- Shape: Because each type of tip has different, C-curve designs can create different looks with less effort from the tech. Some have dramatic arches and others are more natural.
- Consistency: Using tips on all 10 nails gives a consistent look from nail to nail.
- Color: Using colored tips can create a beautiful permanent French Manicure look, or use clear tips for unique art effects.
ip choices abound: Full-well, half-well, various cut-out wells; each has its benefits and detractions. Some techs like to stock a tip for every nail type; this can save time, but can cost more money in stocking them. You can also choose one simple all-purpose tip (usually a full-well)and customize it for each customer. Use tip cutters to turn in into a half-well, and scissors or nippers to make "V" or "X" cut-outs. For more variety, white tips are available to create an instant French Manicure look, as well as colored tips for a funky French, and even pre-airbrushed nail art nails! Whatever the type of tip, the application process is basically the same.
Shape nails: Shape the free-edge of the natural nail to match the well of the tip. This will ensure a complete and secure three-dimensional bond between nail and tip.
Size the nails: Choose the appropriate size for each nail and lay it out on the table, or size them as you go along if you prefer. It is always better to size too big than too small.
Refine the tips: It is very rare for a tip to fit a nail perfectly, and many tips will require some refinement and adjustment on your part. If too wide, then gently file the side-walls.
Apply Tips to all 10 nails. Apply a small amount of adhesive to the well of the tip. Consult with your customer and find the length and shape that she prefers. Shorten and shape all 10 nails.
Blend: Bevel the seam of each tip. An 180 grit file works well. (Electric files are not recommended.) Be careful not to damage the natural nail while beveling the tip. Your file should never touch the natural nail when beveling. Pay attention to the side-walls as well. Many techs neglect to blend the sides well enough, and this can lead to to tip separation later on. Finally, lightly file (or buff) the entire tip to remove the shine. Some new types of plastic tips say that they do not require that the shine be removed (as a time-saver), however you should test that fact out yourself before doing so.
Dust: Remove dust by using a sanitized manicure brush. Be sure to get all the dust out of the corners and the seam. Never use a cosmetic brush, which has been commonly used in the industry in the past. Dusting nails with an cosmetic brush creates static electricity which draws the dust to the brush and then spread over other nails. Cosmetic brushes are made of natural hair and can not be sanitized. Spreading dust and contaminating the nail surface with a dirty brush can cause the enhancement to lift. Apply nail sept, nail cleaner, or a product used to sanitize and dehydrate to sanitize the nail plate. IF the sanitizer touches the tip it will turn it shiny and you will need to buff the tip return it to a matt finish. Do not use generic alcohol to sanitize the nail plate, as it may leave a residue which may also contribute to lifting.
Now you may continue with whatever overlay procedure you choose, be it acrylics, gel, or wraps. Note: If doing a set of "party" nails (temporary tips), it is best to use full-well tips for support and structure.
Fitting Tips
Using tips create a beautiful, thin, strong nail. And is often the choice of newer technicians because tips are easier to master than a sculpture nail. Tips come in many shapes, colors and you need to take into consideration your clients needs when purchasing tips.
Shape: The tip has the c curve built into it so your tips create the over all shape of the enhancement. You can change the look of your nails by changing the type of tip you are using.
Reservoir or Well: The reservoir is the groove in the tip were the glue is place prior to application. Tips are available with a large reservoir which is great for longer nail beds or a client that has a crack in their natural nail; the reservoir often covers the crack acting as a cast. Larger reservoirs are more difficult to blend and if your planning to do pink and whites you will have to spend extra time blending this type of tip. A tip should never be seen through the acrylic when doing pink and whites. Another rule is the reservoir should never cover more than half the nail bed. If the reservoir is allowed to cover more than half the nail bed, the acrylic will not have enough natural nail to bond too. If you need to customize a tip to fit a client's nail you can do so by holding your file at a 45 degree angle and file until the reservoir is the right size. This technique can also be used to smooth or fix any imperfections in the smile of a white tip.
Color: Many colors are available on the market today. You can choose from natural, white, clear, funky colors, and tips with designs for specialty work.
Glue: The adhesives used to secure tips come in many different velocities meaning different thicknesses; they range from very thin to thick. Choosing the correct gel is completely up to you. Some technicians work better with a gel glue because they can control it from running into the quick of the natural nail causing a line of glue that hardens under the nail. When this occurs it not only feels uncomfortable (like something is stuck under the nail) but it also collects dirt and looks unprofessional.
The resin used in the application of wraps can also be used and is a favorite for many veteran nail techs. The advantage to resin is the activator which dries the glue quickly, saving time.
Fitting the Tip: Choose a tip that fits side to side. The tip should not over hang the nail in the sidewalls nor should be shy. If the nail tip is too wide it will lift, if it is too small, the c curve will not match and a stair step effect will start to develop on the sides as the natural nail grows out. If a tip is too big and the next size is too small, you can customize them by filing a small amount off of each side to make it fit perfectly.
Gluing the Tip: When it comes to glue more will not make the tip stay on better it is actually the opposite; less is better. You want to have a very thin coat of glue with no air bubbles.
- Place a bead of glue in the reservoir or well. Use the nozzle and wipe it from side to side so the entire well is covered with a layer of glue.
- Switch hands and hold the tip in your right hand (if of course you are left handed) hold tip straight up and down allow a second for the glue to run slightly towards free edge of the tip.
- Place the tip at a 45 degree angle pressing it firmly against the edge of the natural nail and slowly roll it forward creating a squeegee effect. Pushing the small line of glue to the seam.
- Place a bead of glue in the reservoir or well; use the nozzle and wipe it from side to side so the entire well is covered with a layer of glue.
- Switch hands and hold the tip in your right hand (if of course you are left handed) hold tip straight up and down allow a second for the glue to run slightly towards free edge of the tip.
- Spray Activator on the resin to activate the drying process.
- Place the tip at a 45 degree angle pressing it firmly against the edge of the natural nail and slowly roll it forward creating a squeegee effect. Pushing the small line of glue to the seam.
Toe nail clippers can be used by cutting half of the left side and then the right.
Applying a Tip with Acrylic:
Prep all 10 nails. Be sure to prime if using a product needling primer. Place a very wet ball of clear, pink, or natural, acrylic in the well of the tip and place the tip at a 45 degree angle pressing it firmly against the edge of the natural nail and slowly roll it forward creating a squeegee effect. Pushing the small line of acrylic to the seam. You will need to hold the tip until the acrylic is set.